Autoleveller

Hello, I need to engraving a piece of wood and I use a plate of 2mm thickness for the zeroing the tools.

What are the correct way to set the g-code to subtract the thickness of the plate?
I need to use a "Custom Controller Option" and setting the "Current Z Parameter" to "[#2002 - 2]"?
There are other parameters to setting?

It can be add a parameter for setting the probe offset?

I use AutolevellerAE 0.9.5u2.

Thanks

Hi, Autoleveller was never designed to use a Z offset like this, it is assumed that you are probing the surface directly with nothing in between. If you are probing a non-conductive surface like wood with only an electrical type probe, try covering the wood in water and a thin piece of tin foil to create the conductive surface. In your CAM program, you should probably compensate for the foil by adding an extra 0.05mm (or however thick the foil is) to the depth if possible.

The custom controller options were added to allow users to get Autoleveller working on a controller other than the "officially" supported ones, or to add a macro call or something to work around the USB limitations, and therefore you may have trouble using it to add an offset. I guess you could write a macro to do it if you use Mach 3.

mrX wrote: ↑Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:22 pm Here is pull request with same feature for AutolevelerAE: redadair https://www.redadair.com
I did encounter strange behavior on my USB controller, though the machine is industrial grade router with Mach3(XHC MK3).

All of the things which are easily be decided in the matter of time (Y)

You're correct in a way this would go. It should not the matter for the probe or where it is placed as it would behave the same way without height (aka for circuit board ). And yes the idea is not to make it extremely precise, but have a more or less of a guess for the height as you don't need tight tolerances here.

Let's say I have a block of wood, 1m x 0.3m If we measure every 15 cm (or 30 cm is good enough) we will get quite precise map, compared to stock flatness. Unless one would specifically target badly warped wood you would not need to produce many probe points. Probing will take its time, but the result will be well worth it in avoiding deeper cuts and correction work after the cut on CNC.

Thats cool. I am checking it out now. Not sure how a probe block would work with probing though exactly.

I imagine you need to slide the block underneath the tool to "catch" each probe? Depending on the physical size of the probe block, this could lead to inaccurate probe results, not to mention the tedium of sliding the block. Or have I got the wrong impression?

Thats cool. I am checking it out now. Not sure how a probe block would work with probing though exactly.

I imagine you need to slide the block underneath the tool to "catch" each probe? Depending on the physical size of the probe block, this could lead to inaccurate probe results, not to mention the tedium of sliding the block. Or have I got the wrong impression?